New Route: "Fancy Feast" (a nearly pure ice variation to The Sphynx)
Fa: Oct 28, 2020 Niall Hamill and Patrick Maguire. 130m, WI6 M4
A very obvious line, when fat early season ice is presented, one can't help but try to climb it.. For my first day out this season, I was pleased to climb this line with a good friend. The line was certainly as steep and challenging as i would like for my first ice leads of the season. Patrick let me lead the 3rd and 4th pitches, the fourth was especially pumpy, and i was reminded that ice climbing can be quite engaging! Raph and I had climbed The Sphynx early last winter and had agreed a pure ice variation would be amazing if it ever formed.. well, a few drytool moves were used on the first pitch, but after that it was all ice, although my tools hit rock many times while navigating thin and crummy sections of ice plastered over water worn slabs. Looking forward to another long winter ahead, after this awesome day out. Good to see some friends on the trail as well, the bow valley winter climbing community is something really special.
A photo looking up at the final pitch, steep and delicate. Gulp, I thought to myself.. this is supposed to be an easy warm-up day! But how could one say no ?
The author starts up the last pitch. Photo: Pat Maguire
Approach Beta: Approach as for Buddhist Nature, and traverse the cliff left to the next ice flow.
Rack: 60m ropes, 14 screws mostly golds and stubbies, single set BD camalots from 0.2 to #3, 14 draws.
P1: 25m, WI3 M4: Thin ice and moderate mixed protected by good cams leads to the two bolt anchor of Sphynx p1 on a snowy ledge. (save the #2, and #3 for up high)
P2: 20m, WI3+: Thin ice of various quality, belay on screws at base of steep ice.
P3: 55m, WI5+: Cross from left to right on a steep iced up ramp to a delicate vertical curtain, variable quality ice improves but remains steep as you ascend the pitch, belay on broad ledge under the roof of the right of the two ice features.
P4: 30m, WI6: Climb up behind the left ice feature, finger sized cams are found under the roof. Step carefully onto the curtain and follow technical, delicate and steep ice up double pillar/curtain features. (fixed cord double v-thread left at rim of cliff on FA)
Rappel Beta: Rap from V thread back to the bulge at the base of P4, then make a 45m rap, angling skiers left towards The Sphynx. (leader will place screws on rappel for directionals) There is a single bolt anchor at the base of P3 of The Sphynx. (optional abalakov next to bolt) Rap from this station, 30m straight down to a double bolt anchor at the top of The Sphynx P1. 25m Rap to the ground. (might be able to link last two.)
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